Blades Bistro plus Milagro Vineyards equals a diner’s delight

By Jim Hammond

Blades Bistro is located in Placitas on Highway 165, a road that climbs the foothills of the Sandia Mountains. The bistro is in a small cluster of shops, and it was warm and welcoming on a cold December evening. The bar area occupies one wall, with dark wood shelves reaching to the high ceiling. A divider separates the bar patrons from the diners. The dining area is cozy rather than crowded, and the exhibition kitchen is classy. This night the conversation level was moderate but excited, and I knew why.

The bistro served a four-course wine dinner featuring the wines of Milagro Vineyards. I found the winery owners, Rick and Mitzi Hobson, in animated conversation with some of the guests. It became clear early on that I was surrounded by other devotees of Milagro, which I consider one of the top wineries in the state. Milagro is a classic boutique winery, with hand-tended vineyards and wines handcrafted with a respect for “terroir“. Rick designs his wines to be food-friendly, which made them a wise choice for the bistro’s “first” wine dinner.

Butternut squash and Chardonnay

The appetizers arriving on trays were complimented by the 2007 Milagro Chardonnay, which then paired well with the butternut squash soup. This is still the best Chardonnay in the state, with bright fruit flavors, creamy texture, and a long, lingering finish that reveals even more complexity. The duck confit salad with generous cuts of meat and white cannellini beans (see recipe, this page) worked better than I’d have thought with the 2006 Merlot. Rick has a way with this grape than few can rival. The Merlot has a plum and spice nose—dare I say sugarplums?—that opens on a palate of red and dark fruit and vanilla with fine tannins.

Flank steak and Cabernet Franc

The grilled flank steak in a wild mushroom demi-glaze was fork-cut tender and flavorful, but the 2007 Cabernet Franc stole the show. Rick typically allows two years in oak and a year in bottle before release, but he poured this one a few months early. He said the wine’s nose invokes a forest floor. Yes, that is an industry term. I imagined a redwood forest, with moist pine needles gently warming in the sun. This is a stunning entry and well worth seeking out when it’s finally released, but the line forms behind me.

Dark chocolate and Zinfandel

The dessert was a rich dark chocolate Pots du Crème infused with lime and chili that paired so well with the 2007 Zinfandel they must share the same DNA. Sorry, I must be watching too many CSI shows. The chocolate was so thick you couldn’t talk between bites unless you loosened your tongue with the Zin. This was the quietest moment in the bistro, as everyone savored the pairing.

The chef and owner, Kevin Bladergroen, his wife Anja, and staff shared a well-deserved round of applause for their efforts. This auspicious start promises many more successful wine dinners at the Blades Bistro—or go for the food, which is exceptional.

–Jim Hammond is a contributing editor for albuquerqueARTS.